Lessons on Building Carbone, ZZ's & a Restaurant Empire | Jeff Zalaznick

David Senra 1h47 5 min #30
Lessons on Building Carbone, ZZ's & a Restaurant Empire | Jeff Zalaznick
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Summary

  • Jeff Zalaznick, co-founder of Major Food Group, built a restaurant empire of 77 venues with 76 still operating profitably, driven by a lifelong obsession with New York dining history and a process that blends deep historical research, obsessive ingredient quality, and a “make the best version of what people already love” philosophy.

The Crown Jewel: Restoring The Pool And The Grill

  • The Pool and The Grill occupy the landmark Four Seasons space (opened 1959) in the Seagram Building, designed by Mies van der Rohe and Philip Johnson — the only interior-landmark restaurant in America.
  • Zalaznick grew up revering the Four Seasons; he first dined there for his grandmother’s 75th birthday and knew its history: birthplace of the power lunch, first American menu written in English, first to champion seasonality and foraging, JFK’s birthday dinner venue (cream of asparagus soup in a hidden upstairs room).
  • Previous operators had neglected the space for decades — 50 years of cigarette smoke turned the gray Mies-designed tile panels black; the kitchen was untouched since 1959.
  • AB Rosen (building owner) ran a personal RFP after Page Six reported he would oust the incumbents; Zalaznick texted “Four Seasons?” from a plane, met Rosen the same day, and won by betting on dinner over lunch (“no one drinks at lunch”) and promising to be custodians of the history.
  • Restoration cost $40M+: rebuilt the kitchen to execute 200-person events at à la carte quality, cleaned every tile, remade original Mies chairs, reopened the upstairs storage room as a lounge, rebranded from “Four Seasons” (hotel confusion) to The Grill and The Pool.
  • Menu built exclusively from dishes documented on 1959 menus — “Jack’s Pie” (cream of asparagus) honors JFK; every detail (uniforms, music, artwork) serves the narrative of American fine dining through a 1959 lens.

Origin Story: From Investment Banking To Hospitality

  • Obsessed since childhood: watched The Frugal Gourmet on PBS at 10, memorized the Zagat Guide in high school, attended cooking school.
  • Took a JP Morgan analyst role at 21 for the paycheck; realized within months he read Travel + Leisure while peers read the Wall Street Journal, and that restaurant reservations were currency with managing directors.
  • The senior bankers he admired were miserable; he wanted to be like the restaurateurs he met — happy, passionate, surrounded by food and people.
  • Quit on his birthday (year two), walked into the newly opened Mandarin Oriental in a suit, begged HR for any job; got hired next day as VIP Guest Relations lead, managing every aspect of high-profile stays including F&B outlets.
  • Built an Excel database of NYC restaurants (what to order, best table, who to know) for his VIP guests; turned it into a content site Always Hungry, then co-founded Dine Private with Joe Bastianich (his hero) solely to apprentice under him.
  • Sat with Bastianich at Del Posto three times a week for months, drinking wine and absorbing operations; realized “I can do this, and I can do it my way” — belief preceded ability.

Founding Carbone: Marry The Chef, Don’t Hire Him

  • Studied the classic restaurateur-chef conflict (chef wants art, owner wants profit) and decided to partner with a chef as an equal.
  • Concept: elevate Italian-American “red-sauce” classics (veal parm, lobster fra diavolo, Caesar salad) using the ingredient sourcing and technique of French fine dining — “the best version of something you already love.”
  • Discovered Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone’s tiny Mulberry Street spot (sandwiches by day, $35 tasting menu by night); blown away by the food and philosophical alignment.
  • Cold-called at 10 PM after a meal; Mario (who had seen Zalaznick with Bastianich at Del Posto) invited him in after service; talked until 4 AM at the Jane Hotel — shared vision for a global hospitality company, first step: greatest Italian-American restaurant ever.
  • Rejected the then-dominant “chef’s tasting menu, no substitutions” model; printed a 70-item menu headed “A Piacere” (“whatever you want”) — if they have the ingredients, they’ll cook it your way.
  • Hired captains from the old-school Italian-American tradition to create “experiential fine dining”: theatrical tableside service, abundance, fun — a direct counter to austere, robotic fine dining.

The Carbone Sign: A $10K Neon And A Vandal’s Gift

  • Targeted the historic Rocco space (open since 1929) on Thompson Street for over a year; recognized the neon “Rocco Wines & Liquor” sign instantly — “we’ll take it” before seeing the interior.
  • Landlord demanded $10K extra to keep the sign; paid it. On New Year’s Eve (final night for prior tenant), the outgoing operator smashed every neon tube in a parting “fuck you.”
  • Zalaznick realized the shattered sign was a gift: rebuilt it as “CARBONE” in red neon over the original green “WINES & LIQUOR” — now the most iconic sign in fine dining, replicated globally.

Miami: “New Year’s Eve Every Night” And 100-Day Buildouts

  • Stuck in Miami pre-COVID (March 2020); discovered a city hungry for sophisticated dining, zero bureaucratic friction (“move a tree in New York, your grandchildren finish; in Miami, next day”), and a unified civic will to become “the best city in America.”
  • Within months, called partners: “biggest opportunity I’ve ever seen” — every night was sold out everywhere, no experiential fine dining existed.
  • Signed lease on a failed COVID-era restaurant between Joe’s Stone Crab and Prime 112 (two of America’s highest-grossing restaurants); logic: “how bad can the location be?”
  • Gutted and redesigned in 100 days without moving a single wall, light, outlet, or kitchen element — designer Ken Fulk spent freely on finishes only. Prior tenant did $7M revenue; Carbone Miami does $30M+ on the same floor plan.
  • Brought NYC staff down (furloughed during COVID) to train locals; service culture transferred instantly. Now 12+ South Florida venues, a private club, and a residential condo tower (Villa) nearing completion.

Private Clubs: “Netflix With A Restaurant”

  • Zz’s (Miami, then NYC Hudson Yards) applies a subscription model to hospitality: annual/monthly dues create recurring revenue, near-zero churn, weather/probability insulation — “Netflix with a restaurant.”
  • Differentiator: food comes first. Zz’s NYC has two restaurants (private Carbone with 30-40% exclusive dishes; Japanese concept) plus bars with proprietary snacks.
  • Culinary concierge: members request anything 48 hours out — Egyptian feast, grandmother’s recipes recreated, 10-course caviar tasting, elevated chicken nuggets and Big Macs — executed by a dedicated chef team.
  • Philosophy: “if you’re not focused on eating and drinking, there’s no point in being a member” — unlike London clubs where food is an afterthought.

Vertical Integration: Sauce, Condos, Hotels, Beach Clubs

  • Major Food Group evolving into a fully vertically integrated hospitality company: restaurants → private clubs → branded residential (Villa, Miami: 80 ultra-luxury condos, MFG designs every detail, runs all F&B/amenities) → hotels (Newbury Boston, first hotel partnership) → next: 3-acre Miami Beach oceanfront campus (greatest American beach club, European-style, multiple restaurants, spa, pools, private rooms, Sadelle’s breakfast on sand).
  • Carbone tomato sauce: $10 jar sold in thousands of doors nationwide — “a little piece of what people aspire to at the restaurant.” Same thesis: not a new product, the best version of a familiar one. Sauce business scales beyond physical covers; harmonious with restaurants, not competitive.
  • Dyson parallel: “your mediocrity is my opportunity” — find categories people already use (vacuum cleaners, jarred sauce, spicy rigatoni vodka) and relentlessly re-engineer the best version.

Core Operating Principles

  • Process over inspiration: deep archival research (NYPL menus, articles), narrative coherence (every chair, soundtrack, uniform serves the story), food paramount but “story” and “fun” close behind.
  • Only metric that matters: “are they coming back?” First visit is easy (hype, Instagram); repeat visits prove the product.
  • Passion as competitive moat: Zalaznick’s generation entered purely from love (low-status, “you’ll go broke”); social media later glamorized the industry, attracting opportunists chasing virality over quality — but also created a more educated, spend-comfortable consumer base.
  • “We build places we want to go” — if the founders wouldn’t frequent it, they don’t build it. Applied now to 24/7 hospitality: wake-up to bedtime, same philosophy across all verticals.
  • Opportunity filter: “find me two or three restaurants doing $20M+ in a city, then it’s interesting.” Global inbound from developers, stadiums, new neighborhoods; sort for alignment, not volume.
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